The Lost City in the Colombian Jungle

Ciudad Perdida – “Lost City”

Colombia, a country in South America, is full of mysteries. One of them is the ruins of an ancient city that once served as the capital of the Teyuna people’s state. This city lies hidden deep within the jungle in the remote and rugged regions of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains. Having traveled to many places and seen a great deal, I can confidently say that this is one of the most beautiful, fascinating, and at the same time, most difficult-to-access locations in South America. Today, it is known as Ciudad Perdida, or more popularly, the “Lost City.”

Archaeologists estimate that the city was built around the year 800 AD, making it much older than Peru’s Machu Picchu!
At its peak, it was home to 2,000–4,000 Indigenous people. Their peaceful existence came to an end in the 16th century when Spanish conquistadors arrived, driven by their obsession with finding the mythical El Dorado. According to one theory, the inhabitants were forced to abandon the settlement to avoid being killed or enslaved by the Spaniards.

The ruins of Teyuna were not discovered until 1975. In the following years, looters plundered almost all of the treasures from the tombs. It is said that they took gold, valuables, and anything of significance from the sacred burial sites. It wasn’t until 1980 that the Colombian government intervened and allowed archaeologists to study the area.

IN SEARCH OF THE LOST CITY

Day One: Getting Started

On the first day, you need to figure out how to reach the office of the agency where you booked your tour. You can get there by taxi, opt for the cheaper option of public transport like a bus, or go for the least expensive route, which is exactly what we did. Before booking, I asked if the agency offered transportation from the airport. “Of course,” they replied, “it’s included in the ticket price for our clients.”

After completing all the formalities at the office, a very kind driver took us to our hotel. The next morning, he arrived punctually at 6:00 a.m. and drove us to the designated location, where our next mode of transport awaited.

From there, we transferred to an off-road Jeep and traveled for about two hours to the small town of El Mamey. Here, we had lunch and a short briefing where we were given important information. This was also an opportunity to meet the other group members as well as our guide, Carlos, and our translator, Sebastian.

Below, you’ll find direct contact information for Sebastian.
I recommend leaving behind any unnecessary items here. Remember, whatever you bring along will be on your back the entire time. Your belongings will be safe here, and there’s no fee for storage. You’ll find a list of essential items below.

A Curious Start to the Journey

Just as we were about to set off, something caught our attention: two shrubs growing nearby. They seemed ordinary enough until someone exclaimed, “Is that cocaine growing there?” How could that be? Right out in the open? Legally?
It turned out that until recently, each household was allowed to grow coca plants for personal use. These two lush shrubs were evidence of that.

The First Day of the Expedition

The first day of the trek involves a 7-kilometer walk.
I don’t remember exactly how long we walked, but I do recall there were plenty of stops for photos and videos. The highlight for me was the Indigenous children. They walk barefoot, wearing white shirts, and often carry a chicken in their small hands—likely one that had wandered too far from home. It was difficult for us to distinguish between boys and girls until our guide explained that only boys have the privilege of carrying a handmade bag. Aha, so the bag serves as an identifier!

Day Two: Into the Heart of the Jungle

Wake-up call at 5:00 a.m. We will be walking all day until dusk. Being close to the equator, the sun rises at 6:00 a.m. and sets at 6:00 p.m. consistently throughout the year.

The day is very hot, and it rains almost constantly. Everything gets soaked, including the contents of your backpack. It’s a good idea to bring a waterproof cover for your backpack or to pack your belongings in waterproof bags.

During the trek, we were invited to a local village to meet the Indigenous people. These are the Arhuaco, Kogi, and Wiwa tribes, who consider themselves descendants of the Tayrona civilization. They still uphold ancient traditions, customs, and rituals. Here, it feels as though time stopped hundreds of years ago. These people live far from modern civilization, in houses made of stone, palm leaves, and clay.

They have no electricity, phones, television, and no concept of the internet. And do you know what I noticed? Their faces seem to radiate far more happiness and peace than the average European’s.

I was deeply impressed by one Indigenous man who shared stories about their lifestyle and customs. These tribes chew coca leaves all day long, enhancing their effect with lime powder made from crushed seashells. The men carry a poporo in their handmade bags, which I mentioned earlier.

A poporo is a gourd containing lime made from ground seashells. To use it, they place a stick in their mouths to moisten it, dip it into the lime inside the poporo, and lick off the lime. They then rub the wet stick against the rim of the poporo. This process is repeated many times a day, leaving a limestone buildup on the poporo. Over time, the poporo grows, and the stories it holds grow with it.

It is said that shamans can read a poporo’s surface and even predict the future from it. However, only men are allowed the privilege of carrying a poporo—just as only they are allowed to wear shoes.

The Next Day: Climbing the “Stairway to Heaven”

We begin the day by climbing what feels like an endless staircase to the “heavens.” That’s exactly how it feels. You climb and climb, with no end in sight. Some say there are over 1,200 steps; others claim as many as 1,600. The best strategy is not to look back or dwell on what you’re doing—just occupy your mind with pleasant thoughts. There’s no turning back; you simply have to keep going.

So, you climb and climb, and just when you think you can’t take another step, a breathtaking sight appears before you: the highest and still deeply mysterious terrace of Ciudad Perdida. There it is—the Lost City! You made it!

Amid exotic trees and towering 40-meter-tall palms, the stone formations of the multi-level terraces emerge. There are 169 terraces in total, connected by cobblestone paths and staircases. It’s hard to imagine the architectural genius of the Tayrona people, who managed to construct such a city under such challenging conditions.

A Spiritual Encounter

While exploring the ruins, we had the privilege of meeting and greeting an extraordinary resident of this enigmatic place—a shaman, the spiritual leader of the Kogi people.
Living in the very heart of the Lost City with his wife and children, he serves as its spiritual guardian. With great respect and humility, we listened to his stories. At the end, the Mamo (spiritual leader) whispered something in a language unknown to anyone else and presented both Krzyś and me with handmade bracelets. These bracelets, he said, would protect us and bring us health and happiness. What an emotional moment!

The Magic of the Lost City

I don’t know about you, but I believe in the magic of places like this. The Lost City still holds countless secrets within its depths. When you’re there, you feel as if life from hundreds of years ago is still thriving just behind the next tree. In your mind’s eye, you can see the small stone huts covered with thatch and the Tayrona ancestors busy with their daily tasks.

And you know what? The best part is how peaceful and quiet it is here. All you can hear are the chirping of birds and the rustling of trees, which seem to whisper their own stories. There are no highways, no roads, no sound of approaching buses filled with comfortable tourists.
To reach this mysterious place, you must give something of yourself—trekking dozens of kilometers on foot.

I wholeheartedly encourage you to take on this journey!

What You Need to Know Before Packing Your Backpack

How to Get There?

Santa Marta, Colombia, was our starting point.
While the city’s glory days are long past, it serves as an excellent base for exploring nearby Tayrona National Park, renowned for its breathtaking beaches, considered some of the most beautiful in the world.

Your adventure begins with a visit to a travel agency in Santa Marta, which you should select beforehand. The agency will arrange your transportation to and from the trailhead. Details are provided below.

Do You Need a Guide?

What inspired me most is the fact that the areas we will be traveling through are under strict protection. This is because the trail passes through villages and regions still inhabited by Indigenous people who continue the traditions and lifestyles of their ancestors.

The “Lost City” can only be visited with a licensed guide, who is typically a resident of the reserve.
If you don’t speak Spanish, make sure to request a translator when booking your tour, as your guide is unlikely to speak English.

There are several tour operators that organize trips to the Lost City. You can find them online or visit their offices while strolling through downtown Santa Marta.
Don’t waste time trying to find a better deal—all agencies charge the same prices!

How Many Days Are Needed?

The entire trek to Ciudad Perdida takes at least four days to complete. The total distance is 50 km (31 miles). Keep in mind that you’ll be trekking in a tropical climate. It’s extremely hot and humid, and rain is guaranteed—possibly several times a day.

The terrain is mountainous, and while the elevation only reaches about 1,200 meters (3,937 feet), the route constantly alternates between uphill and downhill climbs.

You can also choose a six-day trek. The trail is usually the same regardless of the duration, so your decision will depend on your fitness level and the amount of time you have available.

At several points along the trail, you’ll need to cross rivers—an exciting and adventurous experience rather than a major challenge. You’ll also encounter waterfalls and dense vegetation.

Is the trek difficult?

Trekking to La Ciudad Perdida can be challenging for beginners—particularly those who prefer sightseeing from the plush seat of a sports Mercedes. The trail winds through the jungle, constantly going up and down, and you’ll often find yourself walking through mud. It’s essential to bring sturdy, high-top footwear. You’ll also need to cross the Buritaca River, so it’s a good idea to pack a waterproof bag to protect your belongings.

Don’t forget about the jungle’s crawling, flying, and biting inhabitants. They were here long before you, and in this timeless battle between humans and nature, nature always has the upper hand. This trail is not for “couch potatoes.” It’s more suited to those who aren’t afraid of challenges, especially since the final stretch includes climbing 1,260 stone steps leading straight to the courtyard of the Lost City.

In short, the route is not easy, but it’s absolutely doable—and worth every ounce of effort. If you have good physical fitness and determination, this trek should definitely be on your bucket list.

We completed the trek in four days, but if I were to do it again, I’d opt for the six-day version, allowing more time to enjoy the company of the Indigenous people and the beauty of the surrounding exotic nature.

What are the sleeping arrangements like?

Accommodations during the trek are typically simple camps, often featuring hammocks instead of beds, which adds to the sense of adventure. If there are beds, they’re usually bunk-style and equipped with mosquito nets. As you might guess, the jungle is home to plenty of mosquitoes, spiders, and other insects—even scorpions.

Make it a habit to check your shoes every morning before putting them on, just in case a new “tenant” has moved in. To deter scorpions or snakes from exploring your footwear during the night, you can place a sock over your shoes.

Some camps offer electricity occasionally and have cold-water showers, providing a basic level of comfort amidst the wilderness.

What About Meals?

Each group is provided with two hot meals a day: breakfast in the morning and a hot dinner upon arrival at the camp in the evening. Don’t expect gourmet dishes, but there will be warm vegetable soup and even salad. The food travels with you on a four-legged “vehicle”—a mule.

During the trek, you’ll have two short breaks to enjoy refreshing treats like watermelon, pineapple, or other delicious fruits. Along the way, you’ll also pass by local shops. A word of caution here: these “shops” are more like small stands selling items such as soda or snacks like chips. You can grab an extra snack, like a candy bar, but don’t expect a supermarket. Remember to bring cash in Colombian pesos—credit cards won’t be of any use here.

Packing List

1. Comfortable backpack (not too large; 30 liters should suffice) with a rain cover.
2. Rain jacket—lightweight since it will be hot.
3. Waterproof hiking boots and sandals for showers.
4. Trekking poles.
5. Water bottle.
6. Insect repellent.
7. Sunscreen.
8. Headlamp—useful after dark, especially for trips to the restroom.
9. Quick-drying clothes. Keep in mind that nothing dries quickly in the jungle, so convertible pants (with detachable legs) are a great option.
10. Swimsuit—you’ll have opportunities to cool off in cold springs or even under a waterfall.
11. Small microfiber towel.
12. Minimal toiletries.
13. Cash.
14. Sunglasses and a hat.
15. Light sleeping bag (optional)—handy if you prefer not to use a sleeping bag that’s been previously used by others.
16. Good mood and a sense of adventure!

For Those Interested

Here’s the contact information for Sebastian, who served as our translator. Sebastian speaks both Spanish and English and is incredibly helpful. Feel free to reach out to him with any questions:

• Email: sebastianvivaseusse@gmail.com
• WhatsApp: +57 300 4365099

Please note that Sebastian has consented to share his contact information, but we take no responsibility for any events related to its use.