North America

GRAND CANYON

October 1, 2024

THE GRAND CANYON

Rim to Rim

A Few Words About…

I don’t think I know anyone who hasn’t heard of the Grand Canyon. Even children in elementary school learn what the Grand Canyon is and that it’s located in the state of Arizona in the USA.

In my opinion, it’s one of the most magnificent natural wonders in the world.

No photograph or even the highest quality film can truly capture the grandeur, awe, and solemnity of this spectacular place.

It’s a geological marvel that offers a journey through time.

Let me explain why.

Imagine our Earth 50 or 70 million years ago.

That was a time when dinosaurs still roamed the Earth.

The planet was undergoing major climate changes, which triggered extreme floods followed by extreme droughts and massive fires.

At the same time, hot rocks from Earth’s interior were surfacing and began to form the foundation of what would become our canyon.

Yes, that’s right! The oldest layers of the Grand Canyon date back to this period.

Let’s go further.

As the climate warmed, glaciers melted and enormous rivers were formed. Many of them carved their way through what is now called Arizona.

Eventually, the rivers dried up, leaving the canyons empty for tens of millions of years.

But our Earth didn’t go to sleep. Over the next 20 million years, new canyons formed. And finally, just 6 million years ago, melting snow from the Rocky Mountains started searching for a path to the ocean, forming a powerful river known today as the Colorado River. Over millions of years, the Colorado River carved a canyon 450 km (280 miles) long, up to 29 km (18 miles) wide, and 1.8 km (1.1 miles) deep.

The Grand Canyon truly is grand!

But to add a twist of curiosity, let me tell you that geologists believe this theory is unlikely, as even the most powerful river wouldn’t have been able to carve such a deep canyon with that shape.

So, how was the canyon formed?

Maybe one day scientists will answer this question.

If you ever have the chance to descend into the heart of the Grand Canyon, you’ll see and even be able to touch the rock layers that reveal the geological history spanning millions of years.

You’ll feel like a real archaeologist or even an explorer.

Each rock layer, each stone, holds a story.

Oh, if only these rocks could talk!

Isn’t that fascinating? Believe me, this place leaves an impression.

THE GRAND CANYON 2

How to Plan It

I put this trip on my bucket list many years ago.

But it’s not that simple because to hike down into the canyon, you need a special permit, which also serves as your reservation for a campsite (details in the “What You Should Know” section).

To obtain such a permit, you have to sign up many months in advance, as the list of applicants is long, and the environmentally conscious U.S. government limits the number of hikers descending into the canyon.

In fact, we weren’t planning this trip anytime soon, but fate had a surprise for us. And here’s how it happened.

As I mentioned earlier, people make reservations many months ahead. But what happens if plans change or something goes wrong, and someone has to cancel their trip? So, what happens to these reservations?

Well, they’re resold.

Every day at 7 AM Eastern Time, go to RECREATION.GOV and check if anything has changed. If you’re punctual and consistently check the site, you might get lucky and snag a last-minute reservation.

And that’s exactly what happened in our case.

At the last minute, which means that aside from the permit to descend into the Grand Canyon, every other aspect of this trip was completely up in the air.

What am I saying? It didn’t even exist!

We were supposed to be in Arizona in just a few days, and we had just returned from Yosemite (you can read about that in the blog under the title “Yosemite”).

Our hiking boots hadn’t even had time to air out, and the backpacks, as if they knew what was coming, hadn’t been unpacked yet—or rather, they were already packed and ready for the next trip.

The most important thing was that we had the “permit.” We’d figure out the rest on the way.

That’s just how it is with us! Our plans are made day by day, sometimes even hour by hour, which is why we have so many adventures.

The nearest airport is in Las Vegas. To reach the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, we had to cover 280 miles (450 km).

We picked up a rental car (details in the “What You Should Know” section), made a quick stop for supplies, and hit the road.

Here’s a tip: Make sure to shop before leaving the city. You won’t find large stores along the route, and in the National Park, prices are usually high and the selection of products is limited.

After about five hours, we arrived at the Grand Canyon National Park. At the entrance, we paid $39 per vehicle, received a map, and a tourist guide.

Krzys is a war veteran, so we were exempt from the fee.

Okay, now for the accommodation. We have our reservation in the canyon, but we won’t be there until tomorrow.

If you plan to stay overnight in the park, you’ll need to make a reservation weeks or even months in advance, just like when getting the permit. You can make reservations on the same website, RECREATION.GOV.

For obvious reasons, we didn’t have such a reservation, but we decided to wing it.

Remember, you’re not allowed to pitch a tent just anywhere in the park, and you can’t sleep in your car in the parking lot.

Don’t be discouraged if you see a sign that says “Campground is full.” It almost always is. Look for the campground host. They are usually located near the entrance and have a sign saying “HOST.”

Approach him and ask for help. If he’s a nice person, you’ll find a spot at this campground. A more formal person will show you where to ask further.

We stayed at the popular “North Rim Campground,” and the host there was very nice and pointed out a place where we could pitch our tent.

Remember, always smile nicely when asking for such a favor!

Tomorrow at dawn, we’re setting out to conquer the Grand Canyon!

CONQUERING THE GRAND CANYON

Oh my, it was so cold at night! We Floridians need a few days to adjust to the cooler conditions. We woke up very early, maybe around 3:30 a.m. It’s crucial to start the trail early because once the sun rises, it gets extremely hot in the canyon.

We need to cover as much distance as possible before the heat hits us.

I’m checking my phone to make sure where the trailhead is. I always use the AllTrails app, where I download maps ahead of time.

Darn, the phone has no signal, and the map didn’t load. There are no signs, and there’s no one to ask for directions since everyone is still sleeping.

We’re driving to the Visitor Center, where we’ll leave our car in the 24-hour parking lot. We tighten our backpacks, put on headlamps, and head off in search of the “North Kaibab Trailhead,” which is the start of our trail.

Thankfully, we started on the paved road because, within a few minutes, a car stopped in front of us, and to our surprise, they asked if we wanted a ride. Of course! That’s a few kilometers “in the bag.”

What a great start to our adventure!

We hit the trail at 5:45 a.m., and the sun was already rising. Unknowingly, we realized that our trek started on the anniversary and at the hour of the outbreak of World War II. For Krys, as a veteran, this has great significance.

The photo session begins right from the start. But how could it not, with a sunrise against the stunning backdrop of a panoramic view? Before you stands the Grand Canyon, and the redness of its rocks in the sunlight creates the impression that it’s emerging from flames. It’s vast and intimidating. The view takes your breath away! It’s truly beautiful, and surrounded by these amazing sights and the songs of birds waking up, we walk with our hearts in our throats, heading towards the heart of the Grand Canyon.

Our first rest stop comes after 3 hours of hiking. We’ve covered 5 miles (8 km). Here, we can use the restroom and refill our drinking water.

A 5-minute break, we eat an energy bar, and we’re off again. We pass another 2 miles (3 km) and reach the campground where we have a reservation and are supposed to stay the night, Cottonwood Campground.

To my eye, it seems pretty friendly here. Tall bushes offer a minimal amount of shade. A small stream (don’t confuse it with the Colorado River) flows here, so you can take off your shoes and dip your feet.

Finally, some shade, there’s water, and it’s so peaceful and quiet. What a paradise! It would be nice to stay here overnight, but it’s only 9:30 a.m., and it’s too early to finish the hike and pitch the tent. The next place we could stay overnight is Bright Angel Campground, which is 8 miles (13 km) further.

Great, let’s have breakfast here and keep going! But wait, we don’t have a reservation where we’re headed. Oh well! We’ll figure something out…

Cottonwood Campground marks the end of the day-hiker zone. If you don’t have a permit, you have to turn back.

We keep going. It’s incredibly hot. While it was 50°F (10°C) up top in the morning, here it’s at least 115°F (46°C). This is no joke.

The trail is easy since there are no inclines, but unfortunately, there’s no shade either. Our backpacks are heavy, each with a dozen bottles of water, making them even heavier.

Luckily, we’ve had the same stream by our side the whole time, and whenever we can get closer to it, we take advantage of its coolness. We even decide to take a quick dip. What a relief!

Did I already mention that, besides us, there is almost no one else on the trail?

Very few people decide to cross the canyon in such difficult conditions. Most brave souls choose to stay at the campground and return to the top the next day.

We reach Bright Angel Campground around 4 in the afternoon. We plan to stay the night here, but almost all the campsites are already taken. It doesn’t look good.

But oh well, we’re staying! Whatever happens, happens!

And indeed, it did. An hour later, a ranger came to check reservations. All our explanations and excuses were in vain. In the end, we got an $80 fine and permission to stay the night.

The day isn’t over yet. I didn’t lug my swimsuit in my backpack for nothing—I’m definitely going to swim in the famous Colorado River. The river was just a 10-minute walk away. Should I take my shampoo and wash my hair too? Great idea! I couldn’t wait to finally jump into the water. “Hurry, hurry,” I urged Krys.

Imagine my surprise and disappointment when, instead of the wonderfully crystal-clear, pristine water I had dreamed of, I saw a rushing torrent of disgusting mud!

Fortunately, nearby, the same stream that had accompanied us earlier was still flowing, so I went there instead, with apologies.

We eagerly waited for the day to end, hoping that with the sunset, the temperature would drop. No such luck. It seemed even hotter, with not even the slightest breeze. The night was even worse—there was no air to breathe, and it was a living nightmare. No one slept.

The canyon had no mercy for us.

It had been an exhausting day, followed by an even more exhausting night, but the worst—and best—was still ahead.

The next day, we had hours of climbing ahead of us.

We get up at 3 a.m. No one is sleeping in the camp anymore, and you can see the flickering headlamps. Everyone wants to get on the trail as quickly as possible. We have 6 miles (10 km) to go, all uphill. We will have to ascend 1,500 meters (4,920 feet) with heavy backpacks filled to the brim with gear and water. We’re heading south, and there won’t be a single patch of shade.

We walk slowly, not talking to conserve energy. Hour after hour passes, and there’s still no end to the trail in sight. We’re crawling like turtles, while day hikers running down the trail pass us from the opposite direction.

They look at our tired faces and heavy backpacks. Then they ask the question: “Was it worth it?”

What kind of question is that? Of course, it was worth it!

What satisfaction, what joy! We did it! We made it!

This was one of the most incredible experiences I’ve ever had.

The Grand Canyon holds many secrets. Down there, everything has its own story and meaning. It was there millions of years ago, and it will remain long after we are gone.

I highly recommend it!

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW

If you’re planning such a trip, I suggest staying for two nights—one at each campground. It’s best to start the hike from the north rim of the canyon. The trail is more friendly, with a gentler ascent.

Many people also choose to descend into the canyon from the south rim, stay overnight at Bright Angel Campground, and return the same way the next day. This is probably the easiest option.

ACCOMMODATION

At the bottom of the canyon, there are two campgrounds. On the South Rim, there is Bright Angel Campground, and on the opposite side of the canyon, Cottonwood Campground. Neither offers full bathrooms—there are only toilets. There is also no kitchen, laundry facilities, etc. However, there is drinking water available.

Each campsite has a bench and a fire ring.

On the South Rim, there is also a two-star hotel, “Phantom Ranch.” This is a great convenience for those who don’t want to carry a tent on their backs.

RESERVATION / PERMIT

To make a reservation, you need to visit the website RECREATION.GOV.

Enter your destination: Grand Canyon National Park.

Next, go to: Backcountry Permits.

Then: Check Availability, where you enter the date, number of people, and which trail interests you.

The cost of a reservation for one night is $40.

CAR RENTAL RESERVATION

There are many websites that allow you to rent a car. Some of our favorites are kayak.com and booking.com.

The daily cost of renting a car ranges from $20 to $50 per day.

The nearest airport is in Las Vegas. If you’re landing there, to get to the car rental facility, you’ll need to leave the airport.

Follow the signs for “car rental,” which will guide you outside the building. Then, wait for the shuttle bus assigned to your chosen rental company.

WHAT TO BRING