Africa

KILIMANJARO – The Mountain of Evil Spirits?

November 8, 2024

The majestic and highest peak of Africa, part of the Seven Summits, draws tourists from around the world like a magnet. Long before the arrival of Europeans, numerous tribes lived around the volcano. Many of them, including the Maasai who still reside there, hold the place in such awe that they named Kilimanjaro the mountain of evil spirits and perform ritual dances to honor it as a divine entity.

Kilimanjaro is the highest free-standing mountain in the world, also known as the “Roof of Africa.” It reaches nearly 6,000 meters above sea level, precisely 5,895 meters. Contrary to common belief, it is not a single mountain but three separate volcanic craters. The youngest and highest is the Kibo crater, whose highest point is called Uhuru Peak, the goal of all expeditions.

In the 19th century, climbing the mountain took six weeks. Today, seven routes lead to the summit, and with the help of experienced guides, it can be conquered in six days.

ON THE MARANGU ROUTE – HOW TO CLIMB KILIMANJARO!

To start your adventure, you need to land in Tanzania, specifically at Mount Kilimanjaro Airport, 53 km from the city of Arusha.

Online, you’ll find plenty of agencies that offer their services and practically do everything for you, of course, for a significant price. Once you select such an agency, their representative will pick you up from the airport and take you to your hotel.

We traveled for an hour to the hotel. It was our first time in Africa, so we eagerly pressed our noses to the car window, looking for anything unusual. Sadly, apart from a few small villages with wooden huts, there was nothing. A view familiar from National Geographic.

That same day, we met our guide, Joseph, who came to the hotel to meet us and check how prepared we were for the expedition. Joseph meticulously went over a checklist of what we would need. If you forgot something or simply didn’t pack it, the company would rent it to you for an additional fee.

As I mentioned earlier, there are various routes to reach the summit of Kilimanjaro. But you certainly can’t go alone. You can only enter Kilimanjaro National Park with a guide. The Tanzanian authorities decided that everyone attempting to reach the top of Africa must hire a support team. Literally, a team. In our case, for the two of us, there were nine people assigned. We had a guide, an assistant guide, a cook, an assistant cook, and five porters to carry our bags. Quite a sizable group!

Among the several routes to choose from, I opted for Marangu without hesitation. Admittedly, the fact that it is the only route offering accommodation in small huts influenced my decision. These huts are shaped like the letter “A” and contain only four beds. On the other routes, you sleep in tents. Naturally, comfort and convenience won out.

Day One

Early in the morning, right after breakfast, we met the rest of our team. The boys packed our belongings into the car, and we set off for the entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park. If there’s anything you don’t want to lug with you, such as cash you won’t need, you can safely leave it in the hotel safe. We boarded a rickety van and hit the road. It was very hot, the car had no air conditioning, so we had to make do with the breeze from the window. For some reason, only one window was open, presumably because the others were broken. But it didn’t matter; we weren’t there for comfort, but for adventure.

After two hours of bouncing around on every bump, we reached the park gate. Joseph handled the paperwork while we waited for the rest of the caravan.

Ahead of us lay a four-hour hike to the first shelter, Mandara Hut, located at 2,700 meters above sea level. It was the first day, so full of energy, we practically jogged along the comfortable path through the dense rainforest. Exotic birds sang around us, monkeys dangled from the trees, and mongooses scurried through the underbrush. I hadn’t imagined it could be so fantastic.

After reaching the camp and taking a short rest, we went on a brief walk to an old crater 850 meters away. We had a good laugh when we encountered a monkey contentedly feasting on blackberries. It was within arm’s reach and seemed entirely unbothered by our presence. At the end of the day, we were treated to a warm “shower.” I love surprises! The shower turned out to be a small plastic bowl filled with warm water. But, as I said, we weren’t there for comfort but for adventure. It turned out that even a small bowl of water could bring a lot of joy and relief.

Day Two

We set out for the Horombo Hut, located at 3,720 meters above sea level. A six-hour hike lay ahead of us. In our backpacks, we carried only a long-sleeved sweatshirt, water, and an energy bar. The porters carried the rest. The hike was pleasant, and time flew by as we chatted with our new African friend. With every passing kilometer, we watched as the surrounding vegetation changed with the altitude. I was particularly drawn to the Senecio trees, lobelias, and yellow-red flowers known as Red Hot Pokers. All this created an unparalleled atmosphere.

Horombo Hut is the most popular and crowded shelter on the route. It serves both those ascending and descending the mountain. I recommend staying here an extra day for acclimatization. This is crucial, as I found out later. If you choose to stay an additional day, your guide will likely take you to the Mawenzi Hut, a climb up to 4,535 meters above sea level. This exercise helps you cope better with the thin air on Kibo and offers stunning views. At the end of the day, you’ll return to Horombo Hut.

Night

The jokes were over. It was very cold, and my full bladder wouldn’t let me sleep through the night. I put on a warm jacket and asked Krzyś to accompany me to the bathroom. “Hurry,” I urged, “or I won’t make it.” I only remember entering the stall, and then… nothing. It must have been just a few minutes before I woke up with my face pressed against the cold bathroom floor. Had I fainted? At that moment, I didn’t know that altitude sickness could take on different forms, and this was one of them!

Day Three

Our goal that day was the stone hut, specifically the Kibo Hut, located at an altitude of 4,705 meters above sea level. Every morning during breakfast, Joseph asks how we feel and checks our pulse. Of course, I don’t mention the night’s incident for fear he won’t let me continue. Kibo is our last stop before the summit attempt.

We are following the so-called “upper route,” surrounded by a harsh, desert-like landscape.

It’s hard to spot any signs of life here, just gravel and volcanic dust. We are already very high up, and the air is thin. Frequent breaks are necessary as our legs give out. The climb is hard, and no one speaks to save energy. Finally, after six hours, we reach the stone hut. My head aches, and I need to drink a lot of water again. The room is freezing and has no light except for a small vent in the wall. This “tomb” contains about 10 bunk beds. They brought us dinner, but I can’t eat. I feel nauseous and go straight to sleep.

Day Four – Reaching the Summit

We wake up long before midnight. The room is full of tourists, all moving around quietly, though not everyone decides to go for the summit. I hear a faint cry from a girl I met on the trail the day before. She says she has no strength and gives up. I, too, have no strength but stay silent. I have to go, even if it takes me all day—I’m going!

They brought us a meal: popcorn and a children’s juice box. I can’t swallow anything, so I put the juice in my jacket pocket. We set out after midnight to reach the summit before sunrise. We are dressed in thick jackets, hats, and gloves, but it’s still very cold. We have headlamps on.

Joseph checks that everything is okay and off we go!

“Pole, pole…” Joseph reminds us. “Slowly, slowly.” We move step by step, painfully slowly. Krzyś asks if I’m okay. “Yes, darling,” I say, but I know I’m not. I try to think pleasant thoughts. Altitude sickness grips me, but I tell myself I can do it. Now is not the time to give up. Pole, pole… In the distance behind us, I see a few glowing headlamps. It’s another group. At some point, Krzyś wants to rest, but Joseph warns against sitting down. I know some people fall asleep at these altitudes. Krzyś says something to me, but I don’t understand—it seems like he’s delirious. Pole, pole… My apple juice has frozen in my pocket, but Joseph has warm tea in his thermos. We also have another guide with us in case someone needs to turn back. After four, maybe five hours of tough climbing, we reach Stella Point at 5,758 meters above sea level. It’s the rim of the Kibo crater. Finally, a sign. Is this it?

I shout, but my voice is weak, drowned by the fierce wind. I don’t have the strength to shout louder, and with this wind, no one would hear anyway. We head toward the sign. It’s still dark, and visibility is low. Joseph lines us up for a photo. “Smile,” he calls, and just then, I feel sick, turning my head to let my body expel whatever’s left in my stomach. I only hear Joseph shout, “Let it go, let it go!” So I did… After a short pause, we go back to take the commemorative photo.

I feel sick and am about to faint. But I remind myself that now is not the time or place for such things.

I am at the top of Africa! I made it! I did it! And then I learn that it’s not the summit. What? We still have a few hundred meters to march to reach the highest point of the Uhuru Peak. It’s just 45 minutes away. I start to realize where I went wrong. Me, the experienced hiker, overlooked the most crucial thing—acclimatization. My head spins, and my vision blurs as tears stream down my face. “Darling, I’m not going. I can’t. I’ll be a burden.” I feel a lump in my throat and want to howl. How is this possible? What’s happening to me? My whole being screams, “Come on, let’s go,” but my body responds, “Not this time.”

We descend the same path back to the Kibo Hut. There’s breakfast. Krzyś feeds me vegetable soup, but I can’t swallow a bite. I am too exhausted, and everything hurts. I remember being bothered by my earrings.

A short rest, then we continue down to the Horombo Hut.

It’s a strange feeling to know you’re at the top of Kilimanjaro and yet not really. When your dream comes true but feels incomplete.

Kilimanjaro taught me a lot, but above all, respect for myself. I also learned that in the mountains, it’s not about who reaches the summit first. Just like in life, if you rush, you might miss a lot. Sometimes, it’s worth stopping, looking around, and enjoying what surrounds you. Only then should you continue your journey.

Only 25% of tourists make it to the highest point of Kilimanjaro—Uhuru Peak (5,895 meters above sea level). Most of the rest give up due to altitude sickness.

Day Five

On this day, we return to the hotel. For a pleasant conclusion and as a gesture of gratitude to ourselves and to Mount Kilimanjaro, we gathered in a circle and sang “Hakuna Matata,” which translates from Swahili to “no worries”!

PRACTICAL TIPS

Your Guide
If you have not yet chosen an agency, I would highly recommend our guide and friend, Joseph Kiterecha. He is an experienced guide and a fantastic companion for your expedition. You can reach him via WhatsApp at +255762023654 or by sending an email to kiterecha@gmail.com. I am confident that he will be helpful and answer all your questions, and later safely lead you to the roof of Africa.

Duration of the Expedition
Avoid the five-day version of the trek. An extra day for acclimatization can help you reach the summit successfully.

Physical Condition and Medical Recommendations
If you have health issues, I recommend consulting with a doctor before this trip. If you are a beginner trekker, start training today.

Passport and Visa
As with any international travel, a valid passport is required. A visa is also mandatory and can be obtained upon arrival for $50.
To shorten airport clearance time, I recommend obtaining the visa electronically in advance:
https://de.tzembassy.go.tz/services/category/consular-services